A cowl neck is a neckline consisting of a loose draped fabric collar.[1] The term can describe the neckline of a wide variety of garments, from the draped neckline of an evening gown to a raised neckline of knitwear similar to a turtleneck.[2] The neckline was introduced in the 1920s by Madeleine Vionnet based on her study of ancient Grecian sculptures.[3] The style is named for the cowl, a feature of monastic dress that serves as both a collar and a hood.
History
20th century
Inspired by the draped garments of antiquity, Madeleine Vionnet created the cowl neckline in the 1920s using the bias cut technique that she helped to popularize.[3] The cowl neck enjoyed the peak of its popularity in the 1930s.[1]
Cowl neck sweaters were popular in the 1970s.[4] Dresses of the disco era also frequently had cowl necks.[5]
Cowl necklines were a common feature of slip dresses made in the 1990s by designers such as John Galliano.
21st century
Two of the most notable garments of the early 2010s featured a cowl neckline. Lady Gaga's cowl-necked meat dress, created by Franc Fernandez, caused a stir at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards.[6] At the 2011 wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton, Pippa Middleton attracted media attention for wearing a form-fitting dress featuring a cowl neck.[7] Designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, the dress quickly generated demand for high street replicas.[8]
The cowl neck experienced a resurgence in the late 2010s as part of renewed interest in 1990s fashion.[2] Vivienne Westwood has been cited as an important driver of the trend.[9][10]
See also
References
- ^ a b Morton, Camilla. "Fashion A-Z". Business of Fashion. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ a b Montgomery, Joy. "Everyone's Favorite Teenage Trend Is Back and All Over Instagram Already". Who What Wear. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ a b Taylor, Kerry (2017). Vintage Fashion & Couture (2 ed.). Octopus Books. ISBN 9781845338565.
- ^ Butler, Grant. "Back-to-school fashion: How many of these looks from the 1970s-2000s do you remember?". The Oregonian. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ Bramley, Ellie. "Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya rock the Apollo for NY fashion week". The Guardian. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ Graddon, Frankie. "Raising the steaks: The impact of Lady Gaga's meat dress 10 years on". Independent.co.uk. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ Carter, Claire. "Pippa Middleton: my bridesmaid dress fitted a little too well". Telegraph.co.uk.
- ^ Bergin, Olivia. "Debenhams produce £170 copy of Pippa Middleton's bridesmaid dress". Telegraph.co.uk. Archived from the original on 2013-11-10. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ Freeman, Ellen. "Red Carpet Trend: Return of the Cowl Neck". The Fashion Spot. Retrieved 26 September 2020.
- ^ Leitch, Luke. "Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear".