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  2. World Encyclopedia
  3. Chogolisa - Wikipedia
Chogolisa - Wikipedia
Coordinates: 35°36′51″N 76°34′45″E / 35.61417°N 76.57917°E / 35.61417; 76.57917
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Chogolisa
Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
Highest point
Elevation7,665 m (25,148 ft)[1]
Ranked 36th
Prominence1,624 m (5,328 ft)[2]
Listing
Coordinates35°36′51″N 76°34′45″E / 35.61417°N 76.57917°E / 35.61417; 76.57917[2]
Naming
Native nameچوگولیزا (Urdu)
English translationGreat Hunt
Geography
Chogolisa is located in Pakistan
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Chogolisa is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Chogolisa (Gilgit Baltistan)
Map
About OpenStreetMaps
Maps: terms of use
30km
19miles
Pakistan
India
China
Gasherbrum V
48
Gasherbrum V
Gasherbrum V
Rimo III
Rimo III
Rimo III
Apsarasas Kangri I
Apsarasas Kangri I
Apsarasas Kangri I
Diran
Diran
Diran
Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
K6
K6
K6
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Crown Peak
Crown Peak
Crown Peak
Baltoro Kangri
Baltoro Kangri
Baltoro Kangri
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Sherpi Kangri
Sherpi Kangri
Sherpi Kangri
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ghent Kangri
Ghent Kangri
Ghent Kangri
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Sia Kangri
Sia Kangri
Sia Kangri
K12
K12
K12
Malubiting
Malubiting
Malubiting
Teram Kangri I
Teram Kangri I
Teram Kangri I
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri II
Saser Kangri II
Saser Kangri II
Mamostong Kangri K35
Mamostong Kangri K35
Mamostong Kangri K35
Skyang Kangri
Skyang Kangri
Skyang Kangri
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Saser Kangri I, K22
Saser Kangri I, K22
Saser Kangri I, K22
Batura III
Batura III
Batura III
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Masherbrum, K1
Masherbrum, K1
Masherbrum, K1
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
Distaghil Sar
Distaghil Sar
Gasherbrum IV, K3
Gasherbrum IV, K3
Gasherbrum IV, K3
Gasherbrum III, K3a
Gasherbrum III, K3a
Gasherbrum III, K3a
Gasherbrum II, K4
Gasherbrum II, K4
Gasherbrum II, K4
Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Gasherbrum I, K5
Gasherbrum I, K5
Gasherbrum I, K5
K2
K2
K2
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.
Legend
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
LocationGilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascentAugust 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)
1958 (Chogolisa II)
Easiest routeRock/snow/ice climb
Chogolisa
Traditional Chinese喬戈里薩峰
Simplified Chinese乔戈里萨峰
Transcriptions

Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks.

Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of 7,665 metres (25,148 ft). On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at 7,654 m (25,112 ft) in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892.[3]

Climbing history

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record[1] which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and Somervell reached 8,200 m (26,903 ft) on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.[4]

Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.[5] His body has never been found.[1]

On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.[6][7][8]

The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.[9][1]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News. Retrieved 2004-01-03.
  2. ^ a b "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2010-08-05.
  3. ^ Conway, Sir William Martin (1894). Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas. Unwin. Retrieved 26 April 2024.
  4. ^ Bolinder, Anders (1968). "Height Records". In Barnes, Malcom (ed.). Mountain World 1966/7. George Allen and Unwin Ltd. p. 228. Retrieved 10 February 2025.
  5. ^ Diemberger, Kurt (1958). "Broad Peak and Chogolisa 1957". Himalayan Journal. #21: 1–15. Retrieved 27 April 2024.
  6. ^ Kuwabara, Takeo (1959). "The First Ascent of Chogolisa" (PDF). The Alpine Journal: 168.
  7. ^ "Japanese Conquer Mountain". The New York Times. August 20, 1958. p. 7.
  8. ^ Kuwabara, Takeo (1959). "Japanese Alpinists in the Himalaya". American Alpine Journal. 11 (2). American Alpine Club: 243. Retrieved 2025-06-26.
  9. ^ Koblmüller, Eduard (1976). "Chogolisa". American Alpine Journal. 20 (2). American Alpine Club: 537. Retrieved 2025-06-26.
Sunting pranala
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